More on the New Tea Trend

by Donna Morris-Calvey of Wild Thyme Whole Food & Tea Co
(This article appeared in the May/June 2004 edition of Violet)

What’s your favorite cup of tea? At this very moment, my favorite is China White Snow Buds. A few hours ago it was Second Flush Darjeeling with a splash of milk. And last night, I couldn’t drink enough Jade Oolong. The truth is my preference changes continuously because there are so many wonderful teas to enjoy and each offers numerous associated health benefits.

Many people don’t realize all tea; be it black, oolong, green or white; originates from the leaves of the camellia sinensis bush. This isn’t surprising given the huge differences in tea varieties stemming from climatic conditions, harvesting times and processing methods followed to bring out each tea’s best characteristics. Contributing to confusion is the misnomer “herbal teas” which are not true teas, but rather herbal infusions or fruity tisanes.

Growing awareness of the health attributes associated with tea drinking have resulted in endorsements from the medical establishment and spawned clinical trials at major medical institutions throughout this country. According to a recent issue of the “Mayo Clinic Health Letter,” daily tea consumption is recommended due a strong connection between tea drinking and lower rates of cardiovascular disease and cancer.

The mechanisms for tea’s effectiveness in cancer prevention and improved cardiovascular health aren’t fully understood. It is believed, tea’s powerful antioxidants serve to protect the body from cancer by neutralizing “free radicals,” byproducts of normal cell metabolism, before they can cause cellular damage. These same antioxidants lower high cholesterol by impacting the way fat is metabolized by the body.

Other International medical studies demonstrate the consumption of camellia sinensis teas, greens, blacks, or oolongs, each in varying degrees: prevents cavities, reduces stress, lowers blood pressure, lowers blood sugar, reduces weight, improves digestion and increases longevity. How can you not drink tea when it’s so good for you?

As I sip my cup of tea made from White Snow Buds, the burden of explaining the tremendous range in aroma, taste, liquors and leaf appearance in the vast world of tea seems manageable. Even with thousands of tea gardens growing camellia sinensis tea bushes in highland jungles around the globe, what essentially sets one tea apart from another is the processing immediately following the harvest.

Below are the five primary tea categories:

White Tea is a rare very minimally processed tea produced only in China during the annual spring tea harvest in March. Only the youngest buds still covered with fine whitish hairs are picked just before the leaves open. These buds are immediately steamed to stop the enzymatic breakdown and subsequently dried. Connoisseurs appreciate the pale yellow color and mellow, nutty slightly sweet taste of the infusion.

Green Tea is produced throughout the world’s tea growing regions by withering freshly plucked leaves and immediately pan firing or steaming (Sencha style) to prevent oxidation. The leaves are then hand rolled into pellets or shaped into spears or other forms by skilled artisans using generations old techniques. The tea is then fired to remove excess moisture. Some green teas (Gun powder green) are roasted over evergreen embers to impart a toasty aroma.

Oolong Tea a specialty of Taiwan and China, is a highly flavorful aromatic tea exhibiting qualities of both green and black. The leaves are precisely harvested when they reach their peak, neither too tender nor too mature. Withering is begun by wilting the tealeaves in direct sunlight, then shaking them in bamboo baskets to bruise the edges and initiate oxidation. This process may be repeated several times, depending on the type (i.e. degree of oxidation) of oolong tea produced. Light (10 - 20 % oxidized) and medium (30 – 40 % oxidized) oolongs have a rich vegetal taste set off by lilac floral notes. Dark oolongs (50 % oxidized) exhibit a toasted grain flavor.

Black Tea is very familiar since most have tried varieties such as Earl Grey, English breakfast tea or Darjeeling. This tea is produced around the world by a multi-step process involving harvesting, shade withering, rolling/bruising to mix leaf enzymes and oxidizing for several hours. Upon reaching full oxidation the leaves are heated, roasted or dried to produce the characteristic darker colored tealeaves. If the black tea is premium estate quality tea, processing is done by hand. Otherwise the steps described are mechanized producing lower grade “broken leaf tea” which is packaged in tea bags for sale to mass markets.

Pu-erh Tea is a highly prized double oxidized aged Chinese tea valued like vintage wine. Unlike other tea, where freshness is preferred, Pu-erh is processed then allowed to age to promote the development of a thin layer of mold on the leaves. The mold gives this tea an earthy flavor and renders it useful as a digestive aid. For this reason, pu-erh tea is appreciated by proponents of Chinese herbal remedies and is often consumed for medicinal purposes rather than for pleasure.
( All of this reflection on tea is making me quite thirsty! Before I break to re-steep my pot of White Snow Buds, some tea preparation tips are in order.)
Regardless of tea type, steeping a good tasting cup is quite easy. Unfortunately too many people ruin a perfectly good cup by steeping at the wrong temperature for the wrong amount of time.
For example, Oolong and black tea flavors blossom when steeped for the proper duration in boiling hot water, while the delicate leaves of green and white tea become very bitter when steeped in boiling water. Espresso bars are the worst, cruelly jamming green tea into a bag then scalding it with a blast of water!

Although it’s fun to collect different teapots, you don’t need an authentic English Brown Betty, Japanese Tetsubin Cast Iron, Chinese Yixing teapot or Russian Samovar to properly brew whole leaf tea. As long you have a ceramic pot or pyrex cup with spout and a tea strainer, infuser basket or roomy open top tea bag you can make delicious tea. Just use the following tea storage and preparation guidelines and start brewing.

Tea Storage
Keep whole leaf tea in a cool, dry place away from light and strong odors.

Tips for the perfect cup
1. One serving of loose-leaf tea can be steeped multiple times. Simply increase the steeping time with each subsequent infusion.
2. Spring Water or filtered tap water (w/chlorine removed) makes the best tasting tea. Avoid distilled or extremely hard water.
3. Pre-rinse your teapot and/or cups with hot water before steeping and serving tea.
4. For a stronger flavor use more tea rather than more time.

Tea Preparation Guidelines

*Pu-erh tea should be rinsed once with boiling water prior to steeping.

My final tip for getting the most out of your tea drinking experience is to share a cup with a friend, your family or co-workers. Whether you are a neophyte or seasoned tea drinker, the world of tea is vast and ready to be discovered. Explore and expand your horizons by sampling different teas. Remember - tea is delicious, fun to share and very good for your health.

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